Sarawak-Brunei-Sabah : Backpacking Northern Borneo in 6 days

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Visiting Northern Borneo was not originally part of my backpacking route last March- April 2014 .  After spending more than two weeks in India and Nepal , my route supposedly was to head back to Kuala Lumpur , then Manila  ( which was the cheapest option by the way if you think of travelling to central Asia. )  But apparently at the time of booking my tickets online, my lust for wander brought me to find super cheap promo tickets from Kuala Lumpur  , to other key cities in Malaysia .  Still having a few days left , I then decided to take the long way back to the Philippines, and see more of the south by passing through Miri ( Sarawak State in Malaysia ), the Kingdom of Brunei , and Kota-Kinabalu (State of Sabah).

My promo tickets were quite cheap with  “Airasia” .  Got a morning flight from Kuala Lumpur to Miri ( Sarawak State ) at  731 pesos (around 15 usd All in ), And Kota Kinabalu ( State of Sabah ) to Manila at 947 pesos ( around 22 usd All in ). Bookings were made around 3 months in advance. Apparently, low cost intercity flights within Malaysia are more flexi and affordable ( as compared to local Philippine flights ). More so when they are on sale,  like what I got! =)    In between the two Malaysian States , I hopped on local buses , which were a bit consuming , but still worthy to do!

Easy-practical route ? not quite. Up for another travel adventure ? Totally !

Travelling between cities in Borneo is heaven for Passport Stamps Collector

Heres why .

Travelling within Malaysia is quite interesting. Malaysia is composed of several states , and it is a policy of the country for foreign travellers to have their passport stamped approved when crossing between certain states, which is actually ideal to monitor foreign individuals roaming around the Malaysian peninsula.  As such , travelling within Malaysia alone, would gain you quite a number of stamps , plus the stamps you get when crossing boundaries with Brunei.  The lands of Sarawak and Brunei are interlocked , so If you are on your way to Sabah from Miri/Sarawak , public buses would most likely pass through the capital of Brunei , then through Tendungan/Limbang towns of Sarawak , then enter Brunei once again through Puni/Labu eastmost provinces, then enter Sarawak once again through Lawas, before reaching the State of Sabah.  Just to give a simpler picture, here is how my 6 days travel from Miri to Brunei and to Kota Kinabalu  by LAND/BUS  went on..

  • Fly from Kuala Lumpur and Enter Miri, Sarawak  — 1 stamp at the airport

Stayed one night in  Miri 

  • Exit Sarawak State at Sungai Tujuh  ( Malaysia side )  —  1 Stamp
  • Enter Brunei at Sungai Tujoh ( Brunei Side ) — 1 stamp

Stayed 2 nights in Bandar Seri Bengawan, Brunei

  • Exit Brunei at Kuala Lurah   — 1 Stamp
  • Enter Sarawak State at Tedungan  — 1 Stamp
  • Exit Sarawak State at Dermaga Kastam Limbang — 1 Stamp
  • Enter East Brunei at Puni  — 1 Stamp
  • Exit East Brunei at Labu — 1 Stamp
  • Enter East Sarawak at Lawas — 1 Stamp
  • Exit East Sarawak at Merapok — 1 Stamp
  • Enter Sabah State at Sindumin — 1 Stamp

Stayed 2 nights in Kota Kinabalu , Sabah

  • Fly out from  Kota Kinabalu to Manila — 1 Stamp at the airport

Thats 12 stamps in Total   =)

Bus Travel Details :  Miri — Bandar Seri Bengawan  — Kota Kinabalu 

Miri to Bandar Seri Bengawan (BSB)  — PHLS Express runs a direct bus between BSB and Miri for 45 MYR/18 Brunei Dollars . The bus leaves Miri at 7AM and 1PM and takes about 4 hours to BSB . Bus leaves Miri at Pujut Intercity Terminal and stops at the Riverside Promenade in downtown BSB.

Bandar Seri Bengawan to Kota Kinabalu — Jesselton Express offers direct bus from Brunei to Kota Kinabalu at B$ 45  / 114 MYR, which runs only once a day at 7 am .  A bit pricey, but it is a direct ride so you wont have to change buses at the border. The total travel time is about 8 and 1/2 hours.  Jesselton Express leaves BSB at the riverside promenade fronting Maybank Building, and stops at Kota Kinabalu City Center bus terminal.

Option to ride a ferry to Kota Kinabalu is also available. But I prefer bus ride to see more of the countryside. =)

Daily Expense Tip : Food is relatively inexpensive In Miri and Kota Kinabalu . 10 USD would be more than enough for a day’s allowance, as there are a lot of hawkers and street side cafeterias for budget conscious travelers. with price ranging at 2 USD for a full meal.  Dormitories are much available for 5-8 USD per night, with breakfast.

Brunei however, might require you additional budget, especially with accommodation and getting around with public transportation. Brunei Dollars (BSD) is around the same Value as Singapore Dollars ( 35 pesos per 1 BSD ). An accommodation worth 20 BSD/pax was the cheapest that I came across in Brunei.  But on a brighter picture , food in Brunei is relatively affordable , if you buy from Gadong night market and grocery stores.  20 – 25 USD per day per pax would probably be a safe budget when travelling in brunei , that includes accommodation, food and getting around. More of Brunei at https://iamjosemanuel.com/2014/09/14/weekend-itinerary-around-brunei-darussalam/

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Miri, Sarawak Malaysia Miri is a relatively small , but wealthy city of the northern part of Sarawak State. ( The more famous city in Sarawak is Kuching at the south ) . Miri may not talked about by usual Pinoy tourists like us , but this city is quite famous to westerners, as well as Australians , as the gateway to the nature reserved mountains of  inner Borneo , which is valued for its biodiversity and protected tropical wildlife sanctuary.  Aside from that, Miri is also known as the oil producing province of southern Malaysia.   Miri was just a transit city for me because I only stayed for one night. Aside from the nature parks and reserve (which I did not get to visit) , theres nothing much to do within the city of Miri . But I did have a good rest though, the dorm and the people were nice.

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Downtown Miri
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Miri Public Park . very quiet
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Government office of Miri
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There are no buses Miri Airport to City enter. I was forced to take a taxi at 23 MYR (around +300 pesos, 8 usd) for a 15 minute ride. =(
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Downtown Miri.

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Sarawak Tourism
  • Where I Stayed In Miri :  Coco Guesthouse ( Dormitory of 8 capsule type beds per room ) at 35 MYR per Bed (+400 pesos)
  • Good places to eat  : A lot of Hawkers around, serving Chinese food. There are a lot of Chinese in Miri , and even more chinese restaurants than Malay . But they do have malls and fastfood like pizza hut and Mcdonalds
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Hawkers food just along the streets of Miri
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Coco Guesthouse where I stayed. Just tell the taxi driver to bring you to this place beside the Grand Hotel.
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My bed for a night
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Auntie Rita , whom i met at the guesthouse . She helped me find a local bus to Pujut inter city terminal ,where I got my bus to Brunei .
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Humble ticket kiosk at Pujut inter city bus terminal
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PHLS Express runs a direct bus between Bandar Seri Begawan and Miri for 45 MYR/18 Brunei Dollars . The bus leaves Miri at 7AM and 1PM and takes about 4 hours to BSB

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Bandar Seri Bengawan , Brunei  . The peaceful Islamic Kingdom

Refer to this for more of Brunei –>   https://iamjosemanuel.com/2014/09/14/weekend-itinerary-around-brunei-darussalam/

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Sarawak – Brunei Immigration Border Crossing
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Bandar Seri Bengawan does not have a formal Bus Station . Inter city Bus stops at this riverside promenade , opposite MayBank Building.
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among the nice government offices you’ll pass by when entering BSB city center.
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Sultan’s Mosque at BSB , among the first sites you’ll see upon the arrival of the bus at the city center.

Where I stayed in Brunei :  With a couchsurfing friend . https://iamjosemanuel.com/2014/08/30/my-couchsurfing-family-in-brunei-darussalam/

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Travelling from Brunei to Kota Kinabalu, Sabah

Ticket Brunei to Kota Kinabalu at B$ 45
Direct Bus Ticket Brunei to Kota Kinabalu at B$ 45  / 114 MYR  by  Jesselton Express , which runs only once a day at 7 am .  A bit pricey, but it is a direct ride so you wont have to change buses at the border.
Jesselton Bus, The only direct bus from BSB Brunei to Kota Kinabalu , which travels daily at 7 am .
Jesselton Bus, The only direct bus from BSB Brunei to Kota Kinabalu , which travels daily at 7 am . It is an 8 and 1/2 hours ride.
  • Where I Stayed In Kota Kinabalu :  Travellers’ Light Backpackers’ Lodge , #19, Lorong Dewan, Pusat Bandar, 88000 Kota Kinabalu  ,  at 25 to 30 MYR/Night  .   Joy, the owner’s wife, is a Filipina and is very comforting to have a chitchat with.  I Definitely recommend this place. You may get in touch with them through Agoda.com and https://www.facebook.com/travellerslight
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Photo credits – Joy of Travellers’ Light
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Photo credits – Joy of Travellers’ Light
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Fellow guests at Traveller’s Light Backpackers’ Lodge https://www.facebook.com/travellerslight
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Terrace and Dining Area at Traveller’s Light , just around the perimeter of Kota Kinabalu’s mountain park . The Lodge occasional ets monkey visitors at this area, especially during breakfast. =)

Around Kota Kinabalu . Will upload more of this soon. =)

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Jesselton Ferry Terminal In Kota Kinabalu
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Beach of Pulau Manukan Island
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Seafood Market in KK
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Lovely Sunset at KK
Mount Kinabalu
Mount Kinabalu

Weekend Itinerary around Brunei Darussalam

Heres my Suggested Itinerary for a weekend stay in Bandar Seri Bengawan, Brunei

1 — Marvel at the Detailed Architecture and Marble Carvings of Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque. Guests are allowed to enter during off prayer hours, with no admission fee , but a decent outfit is expected.

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The Mosque Absolutely beautiful in actual, very photogenic at any time of the day.

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2 — A Visit to the Royal Regalia Museum that houses the collection of gifts to the Sultan from all other Nations around the world. The diverse collection of valuable crafts and artifacts, is in a way an experience of world history under one roof.  Entrance is Free for all.

The Royal Regalia Museum, where the Sultan's Collection of gifts from all over the world are displayed.
The Royal Regalia Museum, where the Sultan’s Collection of gifts from all over the world are displayed.
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at the Regalia Museum
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Some art displays at the Regalia Museum

3 — A Stroll around Downtown Bandar Seri Bengawan offers significant views of Islamic – Asian Tropical Architecture at every corner.I find the city a worthwhile strolling experience for architects as well as enthusiasts of Architecture.

Around Downtown BSB
Brunei Finance Building Around Downtown BSB .
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Cute street name , where the Sultans Mosque is located
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An iconic Building along BSB’s main road
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Riverfront Promenade
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A mall at downtown BSB. You might find it small, but this establishment actually has a basement retail extension, 2 storeys below the ground. It is located along the same block as the Mosque, and as a General Rule of the Kingdom, no structure should be erected higher than the Sultan’s Mosque nearby.
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Traditional Boat Ride across the River to Campung Ayer

4 — Enjoy local Muslim Food at Gadong Night Market . Ready made dishes at Night markets are inexpensive. you can buy a chicken meal with vegetable and rice for  B$ 2.00 ( thats around 65 pesos ) . Goat Meat , chicken and fish viands are available at B$ 1.00 ( 33 pesos )

Lively Night Market District in BSB.
Lively Night Market District in BSB.
Night Market in Gadong
Night Market in Gadong
White Ampalaya , Delicious ! This was prepared by my couch surfing host, Maam Leona.
White Ampalaya , Delicious ! 
banana leaf wrapped grilled goat meat / fish. yummy!
banana leaf wrapped grilled goat meat / fish. yummy!
Very similar to Pinoy Carinderia Set up
Very similar to Pinoy Carinderia Set up . rice are wrapped in wax paper.
sticky cake snack. like pandan flavored maja blanca
sticky cake snack. like pandan flavored maja blanca
Various Sauces for Brunei Staple food, Nasi Lemak, which you will also see in Malaysian food.  These two countries share most of food, religion and culture
Various Sauces for Brunei Staple food, Nasi Lemak, which you will also see in Malaysian food. These two countries share most of food, religion and culture
Rice Cake (Puto)
Rice Cake (Puto)
Chicken Balls , Yummy !
Chicken Balls , Yummy !

5 — Enjoy a Shabu shabu Dinner ( Steam boat Dinner , as locals call it ) at downtown Bandar Seri Bengawan.

couchsurfing Family . My Host Rohger and Maam Leona.
couchsurfing Family . My Host Rohger Balili and Maam Leona.
Hot pot. usual sight in Brunei
Hot pot. usual sight in Brunei
Chicken and Beef Satay
Chicken and Beef Satay

6 — Saturday Night out at Empire Hotel at Jurung District , BSB …. and spend late night chit chats over Milk Tea and Coffee ( because liquor is rare to find in Brunei )

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Empire Hotel in Jurong, Owned by the Sultan
Empire Hotel in Jurong, Owned by the Sultan
Empire Hotel in Jurong, Owned by the Sultan
Empire Hotel in Jurong, Owned by the Sultan
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Me with friends and a Sun burnt face from spending almost 3 weeks in India and Nepal prior to Malaysia/Brunei. =p
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Teh Tarik (Brunei Style Milk Tea)

7 —– (Sunday morning) Participate in a community Outdoor Exercise  at the grounds of Tasek Lema Waterfalls / Nature Park

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locals doing aerobics with the view of Tasek Lema Falls
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Me . =)

8 — Go Swimming at the Sultan Bolkiah’s Sports Stadium Park

In lieu of not having bars and Liquors, the Sultan of Brunei provided affordable outdoor activities for people to enjoy , like pools, health clubs, and football games every night. Entrance to this nice pool is only  B$ 1  (  35 pesos )
In lieu of not having bars and Liquors, the Sultan of Brunei provided affordable outdoor activities for people to enjoy , like pools, health clubs, and football games every night. Entrance to this nice pool is only B$ 1 ( 35 pesos )
Olympic standard Diving Pool, for only B$ 1.
Olympic standard Diving Pool, for only B$ 1.

9 — Watch a Local Charity Show where you can actually meet a lot of Filipinos working as Teachers in Brunei . A lot of Filipinos excel and are highly regarded in Brunei for Various skills , which is nice to know. Since It was my free time , I just tagged along with my host , Leona , who co-arranged this charity show for special children.  It was also a good opportunity for me to get inside the Sultan’s Convention Centre =)

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Intricately made wooden ceiling
Intricately made wooden ceiling

I would have wanted to get inside the Sultan’s Palace but it only opens at certain times of the year. As such, locals recommend tourists to visit Brunei , the week after Ramadan . It is when the Kingdom is at its most festive. They also said that The Sultan’s palace opens for locals and tourists , and sumptuous buffet is served by the royal family for three days , which is open for everybody.  And if lucky enough, you might also get a chance to see the Sultan . Thats something I look forward to experience when I visit Brunei Again =)

My Couchsurfing Family in Brunei Darussalam

A few months ago, I did a short backpacking stint by land for 10 days around Sarawak state in Malaysia  , passing through Kingdom of Brunei , then to Sabah.  Among all three places, I stayed in Brunei the longest , because I fell in love with its calming charm. The Capital City of Brunei is Bandar Seri Bengawan (BSB) where the Sultan’s palace and iconic muslim architecture is located.

Accommodation is a bit pricey in Brunei , the cheapest I’ve found was around 25 $BSB  ( 20 USD / 850 Php )  Though there was a YMCA youth hostel at the center of the city where backpackers usually stay, but it was under renovation the time I visited. It was undeniably a Big help that my couchsurfing friends in Brunei accommodated me for a few nights, that I can keep up with my tight backpacking Budget.

Couchsurfing.com is an online society for backpackers. A place to make connections, ask assistance and tips from people living in your eyed travel destination.  It is more of a give and take connection, where you can also extend assistance and make yourself available for backpackers who will be travelling to your own city.

What made my stay in Brunei special is that I was able to spend a few days is that I was able to experience Brunei as a Local , than just a visiting tourist. Thanks to my friends Rohger Balili and Maam Leona.

Shout out to my couchsurfing friends in Brunei, I will forever be grateful. =)

couchsurfing Family . My Host Rohger and Maam Leona.
couchsurfing Friends . My Host Rohger and Maam Leona at Gadong Night Market, BSB