Crossing Borders by Land – Travel + Lifestyle + Architecture Blog

Sarawak-Brunei-Sabah : Backpacking Northern Borneo in 6 days

Published on October 6, 2014May 9, 2017 by iamjosemanuelLeave a comment

Visiting Northern Borneo was not originally part of my backpacking route last March- April 2014 . After spending more than two weeks in India and Nepal , my route supposedly was to head back to Kuala Lumpur , then Manila ( which was the cheapest option by the way if you think of travelling to central Asia. ) But apparently at the time of booking my tickets online, my lust for wander brought me to find super cheap promo tickets from Kuala Lumpur , to other key cities in Malaysia . Still having a few days left , I then decided to take the long way back to the Philippines, and see more of the south by passing through Miri ( Sarawak State in Malaysia ), the Kingdom of Brunei , and Kota-Kinabalu (State of Sabah).

My promo tickets were quite cheap with “Airasia” . Got a morning flight from Kuala Lumpur to Miri ( Sarawak State ) at 731 pesos (around 15 usd All in ), And Kota Kinabalu ( State of Sabah ) to Manila at 947 pesos ( around 22 usd All in ). Bookings were made around 3 months in advance. Apparently, low cost intercity flights within Malaysia are more flexi and affordable ( as compared to local Philippine flights ). More so when they are on sale, like what I got! =) In between the two Malaysian States , I hopped on local buses , which were a bit consuming , but still worthy to do!

Easy-practical route ? not quite. Up for another travel adventure ? Totally !

Travelling between cities in Borneo is heaven for Passport Stamps Collector

Heres why .

Travelling within Malaysia is quite interesting. Malaysia is composed of several states , and it is a policy of the country for foreign travellers to have their passport stamped approved when crossing between certain states, which is actually ideal to monitor foreign individuals roaming around the Malaysian peninsula. As such , travelling within Malaysia alone, would gain you quite a number of stamps , plus the stamps you get when crossing boundaries with Brunei. The lands of Sarawak and Brunei are interlocked , so If you are on your way to Sabah from Miri/Sarawak , public buses would most likely pass through the capital of Brunei , then through Tendungan/Limbang towns of Sarawak , then enter Brunei once again through Puni/Labu eastmost provinces, then enter Sarawak once again through Lawas, before reaching the State of Sabah. Just to give a simpler picture, here is how my 6 days travel from Miri to Brunei and to Kota Kinabalu by LAND/BUS went on..

Fly from Kuala Lumpur and Enter Miri, Sarawak — 1 stamp at the airport

Stayed one night in Miri

Exit Sarawak State at Sungai Tujuh ( Malaysia side ) — 1 Stamp
Enter Brunei at Sungai Tujoh ( Brunei Side ) — 1 stamp

Stayed 2 nights in Bandar Seri Bengawan, Brunei

Exit Brunei at Kuala Lurah — 1 Stamp
Enter Sarawak State at Tedungan — 1 Stamp
Exit Sarawak State at Dermaga Kastam Limbang — 1 Stamp
Enter East Brunei at Puni — 1 Stamp
Exit East Brunei at Labu — 1 Stamp
Enter East Sarawak at Lawas — 1 Stamp
Exit East Sarawak at Merapok — 1 Stamp
Enter Sabah State at Sindumin — 1 Stamp

Stayed 2 nights in Kota Kinabalu , Sabah

Fly out from Kota Kinabalu to Manila — 1 Stamp at the airport

Thats 12 stamps in Total =)

Bus Travel Details : Miri — Bandar Seri Bengawan — Kota Kinabalu

Miri to Bandar Seri Bengawan (BSB) — PHLS Express runs a direct bus between BSB and Miri for 45 MYR/18 Brunei Dollars . The bus leaves Miri at 7AM and 1PM and takes about 4 hours to BSB . Bus leaves Miri at Pujut Intercity Terminal and stops at the Riverside Promenade in downtown BSB.

Bandar Seri Bengawan to Kota Kinabalu — Jesselton Express offers direct bus from Brunei to Kota Kinabalu at B$ 45 / 114 MYR, which runs only once a day at 7 am . A bit pricey, but it is a direct ride so you wont have to change buses at the border. The total travel time is about 8 and 1/2 hours. Jesselton Express leaves BSB at the riverside promenade fronting Maybank Building, and stops at Kota Kinabalu City Center bus terminal.

Option to ride a ferry to Kota Kinabalu is also available. But I prefer bus ride to see more of the countryside. =)

Daily Expense Tip : Food is relatively inexpensive In Miri and Kota Kinabalu . 10 USD would be more than enough for a day’s allowance, as there are a lot of hawkers and street side cafeterias for budget conscious travelers. with price ranging at 2 USD for a full meal. Dormitories are much available for 5-8 USD per night, with breakfast.

Brunei however, might require you additional budget, especially with accommodation and getting around with public transportation. Brunei Dollars (BSD) is around the same Value as Singapore Dollars ( 35 pesos per 1 BSD ). An accommodation worth 20 BSD/pax was the cheapest that I came across in Brunei. But on a brighter picture , food in Brunei is relatively affordable , if you buy from Gadong night market and grocery stores. 20 – 25 USD per day per pax would probably be a safe budget when travelling in brunei , that includes accommodation, food and getting around. More of Brunei at https://iamjosemanuel.com/2014/09/14/weekend-itinerary-around-brunei-darussalam/

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Miri, Sarawak Malaysia Miri is a relatively small , but wealthy city of the northern part of Sarawak State. ( The more famous city in Sarawak is Kuching at the south ) . Miri may not talked about by usual Pinoy tourists like us , but this city is quite famous to westerners, as well as Australians , as the gateway to the nature reserved mountains of inner Borneo , which is valued for its biodiversity and protected tropical wildlife sanctuary. Aside from that, Miri is also known as the oil producing province of southern Malaysia. Miri was just a transit city for me because I only stayed for one night. Aside from the nature parks and reserve (which I did not get to visit) , theres nothing much to do within the city of Miri . But I did have a good rest though, the dorm and the people were nice.

SAM_5268 — Miri Public Park . very quiet

SAM_5261 — There are no buses Miri Airport to City enter. I was forced to take a taxi at 23 MYR (around +300 pesos, 8 usd) for a 15 minute ride. =(

Where I Stayed In Miri : Coco Guesthouse ( Dormitory of 8 capsule type beds per room ) at 35 MYR per Bed (+400 pesos)
Good places to eat : A lot of Hawkers around, serving Chinese food. There are a lot of Chinese in Miri , and even more chinese restaurants than Malay . But they do have malls and fastfood like pizza hut and Mcdonalds

SAM_5265 — Hawkers food just along the streets of Miri

SAM_5266 — Coco Guesthouse where I stayed. Just tell the taxi driver to bring you to this place beside the Grand Hotel.

SAM_5292 — Auntie Rita , whom i met at the guesthouse . She helped me find a local bus to Pujut inter city terminal ,where I got my bus to Brunei .

SAM_5294 — Humble ticket kiosk at Pujut inter city bus terminal

SAM_5293 — PHLS Express runs a direct bus between Bandar Seri Begawan and Miri for 45 MYR/18 Brunei Dollars . The bus leaves Miri at 7AM and 1PM and takes about 4 hours to BSB

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Bandar Seri Bengawan , Brunei . The peaceful Islamic Kingdom

Refer to this for more of Brunei –> https://iamjosemanuel.com/2014/09/14/weekend-itinerary-around-brunei-darussalam/

SAM_5297 — Sarawak – Brunei Immigration Border Crossing

SAM_5300 — Bandar Seri Bengawan does not have a formal Bus Station . Inter city Bus stops at this riverside promenade , opposite MayBank Building.

SAM_5306 — among the nice government offices you’ll pass by when entering BSB city center.

SAM_5322 — Sultan’s Mosque at BSB , among the first sites you’ll see upon the arrival of the bus at the city center.

Where I stayed in Brunei : With a couchsurfing friend . https://iamjosemanuel.com/2014/08/30/my-couchsurfing-family-in-brunei-darussalam/

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Travelling from Brunei to Kota Kinabalu, Sabah

Direct Bus Ticket Brunei to Kota Kinabalu at B$ 45 / 114 MYR by Jesselton Express , which runs only once a day at 7 am . A bit pricey, but it is a direct ride so you wont have to change buses at the border.

Jesselton Bus, The only direct bus from BSB Brunei to Kota Kinabalu , which travels daily at 7 am . It is an 8 and 1/2 hours ride.

Where I Stayed In Kota Kinabalu : Travellers’ Light Backpackers’ Lodge , #19, Lorong Dewan, Pusat Bandar, 88000 Kota Kinabalu , at 25 to 30 MYR/Night . Joy, the owner’s wife, is a Filipina and is very comforting to have a chitchat with. I Definitely recommend this place. You may get in touch with them through Agoda.com and https://www.facebook.com/travellerslight

303304_120418155633643_STD — Photo credits – Joy of Travellers’ Light

2966275080_bce97d5051_m — Photo credits – Joy of Travellers’ Light

SAM_5733 — Fellow guests at Traveller’s Light Backpackers’ Lodge https://www.facebook.com/travellerslight

SAM_5741 — Terrace and Dining Area at Traveller’s Light , just around the perimeter of Kota Kinabalu’s mountain park . The Lodge occasional ets monkey visitors at this area, especially during breakfast. =)

Around Kota Kinabalu . Will upload more of this soon. =)

SAM_5581 — Jesselton Ferry Terminal In Kota Kinabalu

SAM_5661 — Beach of Pulau Manukan Island

Thailand – Laos Border Crossing

Published on October 15, 2013January 28, 2016 by iamjosemanuelLeave a comment

Visiting Laos was not originally part of my Indochina backpacking trip . I have not known much about it before, as compared to the touristy Vietnam, and the Heritage Sites in Cambodia. But I came across http://mylovelylife88.wordpress.com ‘s visit to the small town of Vang Vieng in Central Laos, and my thoughts immediately got caught by the town’s Karst limestone hills standing tall by the soft flowing river. Laos was once under strict communist rule, and it was only during the mid 90’s that Laos has fully opened its doors to tourism.

Thus decided to allot a few days to see Laos, and it was a good thing that getting there is just an overnight train away from Bangkok.

Below is my detailed travel from Bangkok, Thailand to Vientiane, capital of Laos.

From Hualamphong Train Station , Bangkok , I booked a second class , aircon sleeper train for 688 baht ( around 22 USD ) to Nong Khai ( Thai border point to Laos ) . Cheaper non-aircon train seats (No bed) are also available for around half the price. Hualamphong Station is pretty organized and the officers converse in English. Train left Bangkok around 8pm, and arrived at Nongkhai train station around 9 am the next day. The train made very few quick stops on towns, but Nongkhai is the last stop, so it would be impossible to miss this.

Further information about the trip can be read at http://www.seat61.com/Laos.htm#.UltK69Jcy0c

From Hualamphong Train Station , Bangkok , I booked a 688 baht ( around 22 USD ) overnight train to Nong Khai ( Thai border point to Laos ) — From Hualamphong Train Station , Bangkok , I booked a second class , aircon sleeper train for 688 baht ( around 22 USD ) to Nong Khai ( Thai border point to Laos )

SAM_0973 — These seats turn into beds with curtain partition. It was surprisingly comfortable, i had a good uninterrupted sleep .

SAM_0975 — morning coffee at the train. around 6:30 am.

SAM_0986 — Nong Khai Train Station, Thailand .

Nongkhai station also has an immigration office of Thailand. After clearing with Thai immigration, I transferred to another train headed to Thanaleng Station,Laos for 20 baht. It was a 20 minute train travel that crosses Mekong River.Another option to cross borders is by bus, since train schedules to Laos are very limited as of this year(2013). Upon arriving at Thanaleng Station, you will immediately see the Lao immigration counters.

The transfer train from Nong Khai , Thailand, to Thanaleng , Laos. only 20 Baht . around 20 minutes ride.

SAM_0988 — The 20 minute train ride across the Mekong River to Laos

SAM_0995 — The Friendship Bridge between two countries divided by the Mekong River

Thanaleng Station is located 15 kms to Vientiane capital of Laos , around 30 minutes travel time. There are a number taxis/vans to the capital that can be shared with fellow travellers. We got ours for 400 baht , at 100 baht per person, since there were 4 of us who shared. I shared with 3 Thai nationals.

SAM_0997 — View of downtown Vientiane . Quite a Laid back city. Relax . not much traffic .

SAM_1009 — I just walked myself around the city center . It was sunday afternoon that time .

SAM_1025 — Vientiane City Center , view from the top of the Patuxay monument .

SAM_1008 — Some charming residential area in Downtown Vientiane

SAM_1038 — Pra That Luang Shrine. Laos’ sacred religious symbol. said to contain some relics of Buddha.

SAM_1021 — Patuxay Monument, symbol of Laos’ independence from France.

And there I was in the capital city of Vientiane, Laos ; laid back, less noisy , not much traffic, ,no big shopping malls. The country embodies a relaxed atmosphere and a perfect view of sunset by the Mekong.

Cambodia – Thailand Border Crossing

Published on October 11, 2013January 9, 2014 by iamjosemanuel2 Comments

Siem Reap, Cambodia and Bangkok, Thailand are probably the two most visited and most interesting cities in Indo-China Peninsula , and given enough days, visiting these two cities in one vacation is possible since they are just around 5-6 hours direct travel ( 400 kms.) on lean days (not much immigration cue) , and border crossing is relatively easy.

There are several options when travelling to Bangkok from Siem Reap, depending on ones preferred time schedule and budget. Below are some of the usual options done by backpackers . Hope this would help.

The cheapest way is to have several transfers (Bus+Tuktuk+Train) which only costs around 16 USD , exclusive of Visas if required. See http://www.seat61.com/Cambodia.htm#Siem Reap for detailed Information.

Speedboats can also take you from one city to another for 35 to 40 USD, which is probably the most scenic and adventurous option that makes it worth the pay.

The easiest way to travel between these cities is with Nattakan Direct Bus Lines which has just been launched Feb 2013 . Be aware that some travel agencies in Siem Reap would recommend a different direct bus to Bangkok, when in fact you would still be transferring to another bus when you get to Thailand. Nattakan Bus Line is the only public bus recognized and allowed by government of both nations to take passengers directly between the two cities.

For convenience and to avoid touts and hassle , I took this Bus trip for 28 , USD , inclusive of AM Snack , Coffee , packed lunch and water. All passengers are given an ID for the trip.

SAM_0959 — The Nattakan Bus Ticketing Office where I purchased my Siem Reap-Bangkok Direct Bus one day in Advance. Office is located a few stores from KFC (the only KFC branch in Siem Reap )

SAM_0962 — Siem Reap to Poipet (Cambodian Border) – 2 hours travel time

SAM_0963 — Scene at the Cambodian Border . Bus drops you off at Cambodian Immigration, and will wait for all passengers just outside Thai Immigration in Aranyaprathet (Thai Border)

SAM_0965 — Cambodian Archway, with the immigration office at the right. ( Not really an office, more of like a counter where people fall in line) taking pictures are not allowed in any immigration offices.

SAM_0966 — Thai Entrance at Aranyaprathet , with the Immigration office at the left. This is just around 150 meters walk from Cambodian Immigration.

Bus full of Europeans. There were only 3 of us , Asians during the trip.

Do note that there are No Visa fees for Filipinos and and other Aseans when crossing these borders , and Thailand is kind enough not to collect minimal entry fees, unlike when entering Cambodia and Laos.

Thai Immigration is just around 150 meters walk from Cambodian Immigration, and you will notice large hotels and casinos at the Cambodian side. Gambling is illegal in Thailand.

After clearing with Thai immigration at Aranyaprathet , the bus loads up all the registered passengers , then head directly to Bangkok . No more bus stops since the bus also has a comfort room . Travel time took around 8 hours , including immigration stop overs and an hour traffic we got when we entered Bangkok.

Vietnam – Cambodia Border Crossing

Published on October 10, 2013January 17, 2014 by iamjosemanuelLeave a comment

Travelling from Vietnam to Cambodia was probably the easiest border crossing I had so far. Below is my travel experience from Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam to Siem Reap, Cambodia . Hope this would help .

There are a number of bus companies travelling HMC to Siem Reap route which takes around 10 hours (500 km) between two cities. I booked my ticket with Sinh Tourist Inc, which is conveniently located near Bui Vien St. where I stayed in HMC. Ticket was at 23 usd, leaving HMC at 6 AM. I booked this a day in Advance. There were other bus options available and some are cheaper by a dollar or two, but since I am travelling solo, I prefer to take the earliest departure time available to get me to Siem Reap before dark.

Sin Tourist Inc where I booked my HMC to SR ticket for 23 usd. with two complimentary water

Upon crossing the border, one can immediately see the distinctiveness between the two nations. Vietnam has stretched its commercial development up to the border while the surrounding immediately changed to rural scenes and flat lands the moment you reach Cambodia. The architecture also changes, from the Chinese-inspired buildings in Vietnam to Cambodia’s shrines and residences more similar to Thailand.

The Obelisk between Vietnam and Cambodia

We left Ho Chi Minh at around 6:30 am and Reached Vietnam Border at Moc Bai in 2 hours , the bus staff took our passport and assisted us in the Vietnamese immigration, then we hopped on the bus again to the Cambodian immigration which was just 200 meters away.

The Cambodian border was too relaxed, our baggages were not even checked . We were also asked to pay 2 Dollars for processing and stamping fee. Some said this was tout by that immigration office but I did not bother to argue about it.

We got our passport back and left the immigration building ,crossed the Mekong River for about 15 minutes by ferry and travelled for 3 hours to Cambodia’s Capital , Phnom Penh . We arrived at Sinh Tourist Office in Phnom Penh at around 12 nn, had lunch and a quick look around at the nearby market , while waiting for our bus transfer to Siem Reap at 2 pm..

fried tarantula at one of the short stop on our way to Siem Reap

Central Cambodia is generally flat , rice fields , with some vast patches of swampy areas. Road itself was OK. Some parts are a bit bumpy , but I dare not complain since I am used to travelling by bus here in the Philippines and some provincial roads are worse .

We arrived in Siem Reap at 7 pm , at the Sinh Tourist office opposite the Angkor National Museum . Siem Reap is relatively a city which is easy to navigate with the help of google map. Cambodians generally accept US Dollars, even for fares and in public market purchases.

I took a tuk-tuk for 1 USD to the Central Market where a lot of guest houses can be found. Streets were wide and well lit.

I did not make any prior hotel reservations since I was looking for decent affordable dorm types and wanted to check my options first before booking . But for convenience, pre booked hotels are ideal .